Before you buy a used car, trade one in, or register a vehicle in a new state, the single most useful piece of information you can have is the 17-character Vehicle Identification Number — the VIN. Enter it into a free VIN decoder and you can instantly confirm whether the car on the lot matches what the seller claims: the correct year, make, model, engine, and factory safety equipment. This guide explains what a VIN is, where to find it, what our free checker shows you, and how that differs from a paid vehicle history report.
What Is a VIN — and Why Every Buyer Should Check One
A Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is a unique 17-character code assigned to every passenger vehicle, truck, and motorcycle manufactured for sale in North America since 1981. Think of it as a serial number for the vehicle itself. No two vehicles in active use share the same VIN.
Each character in the VIN encodes specific information. The first three characters identify the World Manufacturer Identifier (WMI) — who built the vehicle and in which country. Characters 4 through 8 describe the vehicle’s attributes: body style, engine type, restraint system, and model line. Character 9 is a check digit used to catch transcription errors. Character 10 is the model year. Character 11 identifies the assembly plant. Characters 12 through 17 are the vehicle’s unique serial number within that production run.
Because manufacturers are legally required to report how each vehicle was built to the federal government, decoding a VIN gives you authoritative factory data — not what a seller wrote on a Craigslist ad. That makes a VIN check the fastest way to spot mismatches: a “2019 Honda Accord” listing that decodes as a 2017 model, a four-cylinder car advertised as a V6, or a gas vehicle listed as a hybrid.
References:
- National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Requirements — nhtsa.gov/vehicle-identification-number
- 49 CFR Part 565 — Vehicle Identification Number Requirements
- NHTSA Vehicle Product Information Catalog (vPIC) — manufacturer-submitted build records
Where to Find the VIN on Any Vehicle
The VIN appears in several standard locations. You do not need the keys or a dealer login to read it.
- Dashboard (driver’s side): Stand outside the vehicle and look through the windshield at the base of the dashboard on the driver’s side. A metal plate or sticker displays the 17-character code.
- Door jamb (driver’s side): Open the driver’s door and look at the sticker on the door frame or pillar. This label also lists tire pressure and manufacturing date.
- Registration and title documents: Your state registration card and certificate of title list the VIN.
- Insurance card and loan paperwork: Insurers and lenders record the VIN on policy documents and finance agreements.
- Engine block and frame: On some older vehicles, an additional VIN stamp appears on the engine or frame. These should match the dashboard VIN. A mismatch can indicate tampering or a replaced part from a salvage vehicle.
Important: The letters I, O, and Q never appear in a valid VIN. They are excluded to avoid confusion with the numbers 1 and 0. If someone hands you a 16-character code or a string containing those letters, it is not a complete, valid VIN.
Example 1: Checking a Car on a Dealer Lot
Example 1: Verifying a Dealer Sticker Before a Test Drive
Scenario: You are on a used-car lot looking at a silver sedan. The window sticker says “2020 Toyota Camry SE.” You walk to the driver’s side, read the dashboard VIN through the windshield, and enter it into the free decoder above.
VIN entered: 4T1B11HK5LU999999 (example format) Decoder returns: 2020 · Toyota · Camry · SE · 2.5L · FWD Recall check: 1 open campaign listed Result: Listing matches factory records — proceed to inspection and history check.
The decoder confirmed the basics before you invested time in a test drive or paid for a history report. If the year or model had come back different, you would know to walk away or ask hard questions first.
Example 2: Checking a Private-Sale Vehicle
Example 2: Catching a Model-Year Mismatch in a Private Sale
Scenario: A private seller advertises a “2018 Ford F-150 XLT” on a marketplace app. You meet in a parking lot and photograph the door-jamb VIN label before starting the engine.
Seller claims: 2018 Ford F-150 XLT · 5.0L V8 VIN decodes to: 2016 Ford F-150 · XL trim · 3.5L V6 Mismatch found: Wrong year, wrong trim, wrong engine Action: Do not purchase. The listing description does not match the factory record.
A free VIN decode cannot tell you whether the truck was in an accident, but it can immediately reveal when the seller’s story does not match the vehicle’s identity. That alone can save thousands of dollars.
What Our Free VIN Decoder Shows You
The free VIN checker on this page pulls live data from public U.S. government databases and returns a structured vehicle report in seconds. Here is exactly what is included — and where each piece of information comes from.
| Report section | What you see | Primary source |
|---|---|---|
| Vehicle identity | Year, make, model, trim, body style, vehicle type, door count | NHTSA vPIC (manufacturer filings) |
| Powertrain | Engine description, fuel type, electrification level, transmission, drive type | NHTSA vPIC |
| Build & weight | Assembly plant location, GVWR class | NHTSA vPIC |
| Fuel economy | EPA city/highway/combined MPG, estimated annual fuel cost | EPA Fuel Economy data (via mcp.vin aggregation) |
| Safety & recalls | NHTSA crash-test star ratings, safety equipment, open recall campaigns | NHTSA Safety Ratings & Recall databases |
Results appear in a single-column layout: enter your VIN at the top, click Check VIN, and the full report populates below. You can also enter your email address to receive a copy of the results and optionally sign up to be notified when full NMVTIS-backed vehicle history reports become available on this site.
References:
- NHTSA vPIC API — vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/api
- NHTSA Recalls Lookup — nhtsa.gov/recalls
- U.S. EPA Fuel Economy Label data — fueleconomy.gov
- NHTSA New Car Assessment Program (NCAP) — crash-test star ratings
Free VIN Check vs. Full Vehicle History Report
This is the question most buyers get wrong, and understanding the difference can save you from both overpaying and under-researching a purchase.
A free VIN decode answers one question: How was this vehicle built at the factory? It reads the identity and equipment encoded in the VIN itself, plus open safety recalls and EPA fuel-economy figures tied to that year, make, and model. The data comes from manufacturer filings and federal databases. It is accurate for factory specifications and is completely free because taxpayers already fund the underlying government systems.
A paid vehicle history report (from services like Carfax, AutoCheck, or NMVTIS-backed providers such as VinAudit or GoodCar) answers a different question: What happened to this specific car after it left the factory? That includes title brands (salvage, rebuilt, flood, lemon), odometer readings reported over time, accident and damage indicators, theft records, ownership transfers, and in some cases auction or listing history. Nobody is legally required to report oil changes to the federal government, but insurance companies, state DMVs, junkyards, and salvage yards must report certain events to the National Motor Vehicle Title Information System (NMVTIS).
| Information type | Free VIN decoder (this page) | Paid history report |
|---|---|---|
| Year, make, model, trim, engine | Yes | Yes |
| Open safety recalls | Yes | Yes |
| EPA fuel economy / EV range | Yes | Sometimes |
| NHTSA crash-test ratings | Yes | Rarely |
| Salvage / rebuilt / flood title brands | No | Yes (NMVTIS) |
| Accident and damage records | No | Yes (when reported) |
| Odometer history & rollback flags | No | Yes (when reported) |
| Number of previous owners | No | Yes (when available) |
| Dealer service records | No | Sometimes (Carfax specialty) |
Important: A clean free VIN decode does not mean the vehicle has a clean history. It only means the factory identity checks out and any open recalls are visible. Always treat the free decode as step one — not the final word — before buying a used vehicle.
References:
- U.S. Department of Justice, National Motor Vehicle Title Information System (NMVTIS) — nmvtis.gov
- AAMVA, NMVTIS for General Public & Consumers — approved consumer data providers
- 49 U.S.C. § 30502 — NMVTIS reporting requirements for insurers, junk yards, and salvage yards
How to Use the Free VIN Checker on This Page
The decoder above is designed to be used in under a minute. Follow these steps whether you are on a lot, in a driveway, or researching from home.
- Locate the VIN using the guide in the previous section. Copy all 17 characters exactly. Double-check for transposed digits.
- Paste or type the VIN into the input field at the top of the checker. The tool automatically strips spaces and invalid characters.
- Click “Check VIN.” The lookup runs live against NHTSA and EPA databases. Results typically appear within a few seconds.
- Review the report sections from top to bottom: identity, powertrain, build details, fuel economy, and recalls.
- Compare the decode to the listing. Does the year, make, model, and engine match what the seller advertised? If not, stop and investigate before spending money on an inspection or history report.
- Check open recalls. If campaigns are listed, ask the seller whether the repairs were completed. You can verify recall status independently at nhtsa.gov/recalls.
- Email yourself the results (optional). After a successful decode, enter your email and click Email Me This Report to keep a copy for your records. Check the waitlist box if you want to be notified when full history reports launch on this site.
Example 3: Full Walkthrough — Buying a Used Hybrid
Example 3: Confirming a Used Toyota RAV4 Hybrid Before Inspection
Scenario: Maria is considering a 2021 Toyota RAV4 Hybrid from a independent dealer. The asking price is $26,500. She runs the VIN through the free checker before scheduling a pre-purchase inspection.
Step 1 — VIN decode 2021 · Toyota · RAV4 · XLE · Sport Utility Fuel: Gasoline/Electric Hybrid · Drivetrain: AWD Step 2 — EPA fuel economy 41 city / 38 hwy / 40 combined MPG Est. annual fuel cost: ~$950/yr Step 3 — Recalls 0 open campaigns reported Step 4 — Compare to listing Listing says “2021 RAV4 Hybrid XLE AWD” — MATCH Step 5 — Next actions ✓ Free decode passed → Schedule mechanical inspection ($150) → Order NMVTIS history report (~$10–$25) before signing
Maria confirmed the vehicle identity for free, then spent money only on steps that require hands-on or paid history data. The hybrid fuel-economy figures also helped her estimate operating costs against a non-hybrid alternative she was considering.
Example 4: Full Walkthrough — Evaluating a High-Mileage Truck
Example 4: Checking a High-Mileage Work Truck Before Negotiating
Scenario: James finds a 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 listed at $14,000 with 178,000 miles. The seller says it is a LT trim with the 5.3L V8. James runs the VIN before making an offer.
Step 1 — VIN decode 2015 · Chevrolet · Silverado 1500 · LT · Crew Cab Engine: 5.3L V8 · RWD · GVWR Class 2 Step 2 — Recalls 2 open campaigns listed (airbag sensor, fuel pump relay) Step 3 — Safety equipment Front and side airbags · ABS · ESC confirmed in decode Step 4 — Negotiation leverage Open recalls = ask seller to complete repairs before sale, or reduce price by estimated repair cost at a Chevy dealer. Step 5 — Still needed (not in free decode) → Title check for salvage/rebuilt brands → Odometer history (does 178,000 miles match title records?) → Professional frame and bed inspection
The free decode gave James confirmed specs and recall ammunition for negotiation. It did not — and could not — tell him whether the truck had ever been totaled and rebuilt. That requires a paid NMVTIS history report.
How to Read a VIN Character by Character
You do not need to memorize the entire VIN standard to use a decoder, but understanding the structure helps when something looks wrong. Here is a simplified breakdown of a typical 17-character VIN using a fictional example.
Position: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Example: 1 H G C M 8 2 7 X L A 0 0 0 0 0 1 Positions 1–3 (WMI): 1HG = Honda, manufactured in USA Positions 4–8: Vehicle attributes (model line, body, engine, restraints) Position 9: Check digit (mathematical validation) Position 10: L = 2020 model year (letter codes rotate on a 30-year cycle) Position 11: Assembly plant code Positions 12–17: Unique serial number for this unit
Model year codes are a common source of confusion. The letter L in position 10 corresponds to 2020, while M is 2021 and N is 2022. The digit 5 in position 10 means 2005 or 2035 depending on context — which is why a decoder is more reliable than guessing from the VIN alone.
Example 5: Spotting a Check-Digit Error
Example 5: When One Wrong Character Breaks the Decode
Scenario: A buyer copies a VIN from a blurry photo. One digit is wrong — a 3 instead of an 8 in the middle of the string.
Correct VIN: 1FA6P8TH5J5123456 → 2018 Ford Mustang GT Typed VIN: 1FA6P3TH5J5123456 → Decode fails or returns wrong vehicle Fix: Re-read the physical VIN plate. Never guess missing characters.
Always copy the VIN from the physical plate or an official document — not from a seller’s text message where typos are common. Our decoder validates the format and length before querying NHTSA.
Red Flags to Watch for After You Decode a VIN
A successful decode does not mean the deal is safe. Combine the report with your eyes and common sense. These warning signs should pause or end the transaction regardless of what the free check shows.
- Year or model mismatch: The decode says 2016 but the listing says 2018. Walk away unless the seller can prove an honest clerical error and you re-verify on the title.
- Engine or drivetrain mismatch: A V6 decode on a car advertised as a V8 often means the seller is confused — or deliberately misleading you about what is under the hood.
- Multiple open recalls never addressed: Not a deal-breaker by itself (recalls are free to fix), but a pattern of neglected maintenance may extend to other care the vehicle did not receive.
- Dashboard VIN does not match door jamb VIN: Strong indicator of VIN cloning, title washing, or parts swapped from a salvage donor vehicle.
- Seller refuses to share the VIN before you visit: Legitimate sellers provide the VIN willingly. Refusal is a major red flag.
- Salvage or rebuilt title on the physical title document: The free decoder will not show this — you must read the title and order a history report.
Example 6: Two VIN Plates That Do Not Match
Example 6: Dashboard vs. Door Jamb Mismatch
Scenario: During a private sale, a buyer notices the dashboard VIN ends in …48291 but the door-jamb sticker ends in …71034. Both are valid 17-character formats.
Dashboard VIN decode: 2014 Nissan Altima · 2.5L · S trim Door jamb VIN decode: 2013 Nissan Altima · 2.5L · S trim (different year/serial) Action: Do NOT purchase. Report concerns to local law enforcement or your state attorney general’s consumer division. This pattern is consistent with VIN tampering or a rebuilt salvage vehicle.
No free or paid online tool can fully protect you from fraud if the physical VIN plates themselves have been altered. Always compare at least two locations on the vehicle.
Electric and Hybrid Vehicles: What the Decoder Shows
Electric vehicles (EVs) and plug-in hybrids carry the same 17-character VIN format as gasoline cars. The difference appears in the decoded powertrain fields. Our checker identifies fuel type and electrification level — for example, “Electric” or “Gasoline/Electric Hybrid” — so you can confirm that a “fully electric” listing is not actually a standard hybrid or gas model.
For EVs and PHEVs, the EPA fuel-economy section may show miles-per-gallon equivalent (MPGe) and estimated electric range instead of traditional city/highway MPG. This helps you compare a used Tesla Model 3 against a used Chevy Bolt or a hybrid Toyota Prius on operating cost — all from the same free lookup.
Example 7: Confirming a Used EV Listing
Example 7: Verifying a Used Chevrolet Bolt EUV
Scenario: An online listing shows a “2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV LT” at $19,900. The buyer runs the VIN before traveling 40 miles to see the car.
Decode result: 2023 · Chevrolet · Bolt EUV · LT Fuel: Electric · Electrification: BEV (battery electric) EPA: 115 MPGe combined · Est. range: 247 miles Listing match: YES — correct year, model, and powertrain Next step: Battery health inspection + NMVTIS title check
The free decode confirmed the vehicle is a battery-electric Bolt EUV, not a gas Equinox or an older Bolt EV with shorter range. Battery condition still requires a physical inspection or dealer diagnostic — but the identity question was answered for free in seconds.
Free VIN Decoder vs. Carfax, AutoCheck, and Other Services
Buyers often ask whether they still need Carfax if a free decoder exists. The honest answer: they solve different problems, and the best buyers use both — starting with free.
Carfax and AutoCheck aggregate billions of records from DMVs, insurers, repair shops, auctions, and police reports. Their strength is longitudinal history: what happened to this car over 10 or 15 years. Their weakness is cost ($40+ for a single report) and the fact that not every accident or repair gets reported.
Free government-backed decoders (including this page and NHTSA’s own tool) excel at factory identity and safety compliance. They cost nothing and update from live federal databases. They cannot see private accident repairs that were never reported to insurance.
NMVTIS consumer reports (available through VinAudit, GoodCar, Auto Data Direct, and others) sit in the middle on price — often $10 to $25 — and are legally required to include title brand data from participating states. They are the minimum paid step for any used purchase where title status matters.
| Service type | Typical cost | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Free VIN decode (this page) | $0 | Identity, recalls, EPA MPG, safety ratings |
| NHTSA official decoder | $0 | Same factory data; plain government UI |
| NMVTIS history report | $10–$25 | Title brands, theft, odometer, salvage |
| Carfax / AutoCheck | $30–$45+ | Broader accident/service/auction history |
Understanding Recalls, Safety Ratings, and Fuel Economy in Your Report
Open Recalls
When a manufacturer or NHTSA determines that a vehicle or equipment item contains a safety-related defect, a recall campaign is issued. Repairs are performed at no cost to the owner. Our decoder lists open recalls matched to the vehicle’s year, make, and model from NHTSA’s recall database.
A recall listing does not automatically mean this specific VIN is affected — some campaigns cover a range of vehicles within a production date window. Always verify your exact VIN at the official NHTSA recall site. If a recall appears in your report, ask the seller for documentation showing the repair was completed before you buy.
NHTSA Crash-Test Ratings
For many passenger vehicles, NHTSA publishes 5-star safety ratings from its New Car Assessment Program (NCAP). Ratings cover frontal crash (driver and passenger), side crash, and rollover resistance. Our decoder displays these when test data exists for the decoded vehicle configuration.
Not every year, make, and model has been crash-tested. A blank safety-rating field usually means no NCAP test was conducted for that exact configuration — not that the vehicle is unsafe.
EPA Fuel Economy
The Environmental Protection Agency publishes fuel-economy estimates for most gasoline, diesel, hybrid, and electric vehicles sold in the United States. When available, your report shows city, highway, and combined MPG figures plus an estimated annual fuel cost based on average driving patterns and current fuel prices.
For electric vehicles, the report may show estimated range instead of MPG. These figures are useful for comparing operating costs between vehicles you are considering — especially when choosing between a hybrid and a conventional gas model.
References:
- NHTSA, Recalls — nhtsa.gov/recalls
- NHTSA, 5-Star Safety Ratings — nhtsa.gov/ratings
- U.S. EPA / DOE, Fuel Economy Guide — fueleconomy.gov
Common Questions About VIN Decoding
Can I decode a VIN for free without signing up?
Yes. The checker on this page requires no account, no credit card, and no email address to run a basic decode. Email is optional — use it only if you want a copy of your results sent to your inbox.
Does a free VIN check show accident history?
No. Accident, salvage, flood, theft, and title-brand records live in separate databases maintained by state DMVs, insurers, and NMVTIS reporting entities. A free decode reads factory build data and federal safety records only. For history, you need a paid NMVTIS-backed report.
Why does my VIN decode show a different trim than the window sticker?
Manufacturers sometimes use internal trim codes that do not exactly match marketing names. Dealers may also add appearance packages or aftermarket equipment that is not reflected in the original factory filing. Small trim differences are common. Large mismatches — a different engine, body style, or model year — are red flags.
Can I use a partial VIN?
Our checker requires all 17 characters for a full decode. NHTSA’s vPIC system supports partial VIN decoding for some use cases, but a complete code is needed for the most accurate trim and engine identification. If you have only a license plate, you need a separate plate-to-VIN lookup service.
Do VIN decoders work for motorcycles, trailers, and RVs?
Yes, for most vehicles manufactured since 1981 that were sold in or imported to the United States. NHTSA vPIC includes motorcycles, multipurpose passenger vehicles, trailers, and low-speed vehicles. Very old classic cars (pre-1981) used shorter VIN formats that modern decoders may not support.
Is the data on this page the same as the government’s own VIN tool?
The factory specification and recall data ultimately comes from the same NHTSA vPIC database that powers the government’s own decoder at vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/decoder. Our tool presents that data in a buyer-friendly report layout and adds EPA fuel-economy and recall detail from complementary public sources. For official legal verification, you can always cross-check at the NHTSA site directly.
Can I decode a VIN before visiting the seller?
Absolutely — and you should whenever the seller publishes the VIN in the listing or sends it by message. Running the decode from home filters out bad listings before you spend time driving to see the vehicle. If the seller will not provide the VIN until you arrive, treat that as a warning sign.
Does decoding work for Canadian or imported vehicles?
NHTSA vPIC primarily covers vehicles sold in or imported to the United States. Some Canadian-market vehicles share identical VIN structures and appear in the database. Gray-market imports, gray-market conversions, or vehicles never federalized for U.S. sale may return partial or incomplete data. When buying an import, ask for import documentation in addition to the decode.
Can I use this tool when selling my own car?
Yes. Sellers who include a decoded spec sheet in their listing build trust with buyers. Run your own VIN through the checker, screenshot or email the results, and paste the key facts (year, make, model, trim, engine, MPG, recall status) into your ad. Buyers appreciate transparency and you field fewer “is this really an SE?” messages.
What happens when I click “Email Me This Report”?
After a successful decode, you can enter your email address and receive a formatted copy of your results. If you also check the box to be notified about full vehicle history reports, you will be added to our waitlist for when NMVTIS-backed paid reports launch on this site. Your email is not required to run a free lookup.
Where Our Data Comes From and How Often It Updates
Transparency matters when you are making a four-figure or five-figure purchase decision. Here is the source chain for each section of your report.
- NHTSA vPIC: Manufacturers submit vehicle specification data to NHTSA as a condition of selling vehicles in the United States. This database is updated continuously as new models are certified.
- NHTSA Recall Database: Updated when manufacturers file new recall campaigns or close existing ones.
- NHTSA NCAP Safety Ratings: Published after crash-test programs are completed for eligible vehicles.
- EPA Fuel Economy: Updated annually and when manufacturers revise estimates for specific model years.
Our checker queries these sources live at the time you click Check VIN — you are not seeing cached data from months ago. If a recall was published yesterday, it can appear in today’s lookup.
References:
- NHTSA vPIC Dynamic Catalog — manufacturer submission requirements under 49 CFR Part 565
- NHTSA Office of Defects Investigation — recall campaign filings
- EPA Office of Transportation and Air Quality — fuel economy labeling program
A Smart Buyer’s Workflow: Free Decode First, History Second
The most cost-effective approach to researching a used vehicle follows a simple order. Skipping steps or reversing them wastes money.
- Free VIN decode (this page) — Confirm identity, engine, recalls, and fuel economy. Takes 30 seconds. Costs nothing.
- Visual inspection — Walk around the vehicle. Check for paint overspray, panel gaps, mismatched tires, and dashboard warning lights. Compare what you see to the decoded specs.
- Independent mechanical inspection — Hire a trusted mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection ($100–$200). They catch problems no database can see: worn brakes, leaking head gaskets, frame rust.
- NMVTIS vehicle history report — Check for salvage titles, odometer anomalies, theft records, and multi-state title jumps ($10–$40 depending on provider).
- Test drive and negotiation — Only after steps 1–4 come back acceptable should you negotiate price and finalize the purchase.
Buyers who run a free decode on every candidate vehicle before calling the seller save time. You eliminate obvious mismatches early and focus paid research only on vehicles that pass the identity check.
Conclusion: Start Every Used-Vehicle Search With the VIN
The VIN is the one piece of information that connects a vehicle to its factory identity, its open safety recalls, and — through paid services — its post-factory history. Our free decoder gives you the first layer of that picture at no cost: year, make, model, trim, engine, drivetrain, assembly plant, EPA fuel economy, NHTSA safety ratings, and recall campaigns.
Use it on every vehicle you seriously consider, whether the seller is a franchised dealer, an independent lot, or a neighbor in a driveway. Compare the decode to the listing. Investigate any mismatch. Check open recalls. Email yourself the report if you want a record.
When you are ready to go deeper — title brands, accident indicators, odometer history, and ownership records — a full NMVTIS-backed history report is the next step. Sign up for the waitlist on this page to be notified when we launch paid history reports on this site.
Disclaimer: This free VIN decoder is for informational purposes only. Data is sourced from public NHTSA and EPA databases and is provided without warranty. It does not constitute a vehicle history report and does not replace a professional mechanical inspection or an NMVTIS-backed title and history check before purchase. Always verify critical information with the seller, a qualified mechanic, and official government sources before buying a used vehicle.
Complete Reference List
- 49 CFR Part 565 — Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Guide
- 49 U.S.C. § 30502 — National Motor Vehicle Title Information System (NMVTIS)
- National Highway Traffic Safety Administration — Vehicle Identification Number overview: nhtsa.gov/vehicle-identification-number
- NHTSA vPIC VIN Decoder (official): vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/decoder
- NHTSA vPIC Web API: vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/api
- NHTSA Safety Recalls: nhtsa.gov/recalls
- NHTSA 5-Star Safety Ratings: nhtsa.gov/ratings
- U.S. EPA Fuel Economy: fueleconomy.gov
- U.S. Department of Justice — NMVTIS Consumer Information: nmvtis.gov
- American Association of Motor Vehicle Administrators (AAMVA) — NMVTIS approved provider list